JoBeebs World Tour 2011 Summary

            How can I begin to reflect on the past three months?  There were so many journeys.  There was the physical journey of traversing the globe from East to West and stopping in five unique countries along the way.  There was the cultural journey of sampling the local customs, languages and flavors, and getting just a sense of the continuity of humanity as one culture blended into another.  There were the individual inner journeys.  And there was the journey of the dynamic and amazing relationship that Johanna and I share. 

            It is interesting now to reflect back and try to recall the feelings I had upon setting out.  There was the excitement of new adventures and the fear of the unknown.  I remember asking myself many times, “can we actually pull this off?”  There were the hours spent honing our packing list in order to fit all of the possessions we would need into carry-on size backpacks.  There were the days spent at coffee shops researching the countries we would visit.  Perhaps as an interesting twist of fate, and a metaphor for the spontaneity of our trip, we spent the most time researching a country that in the end we did not visit.

            We saw and did so much, that at the moment it is a bit of a blur.  If I stop and reflect, images of places come back.  It feels as though we spent three months living experiences, each of which was a destination or a vacation in and of itself.  As I look back, what really strikes me is the variability of the passing of time.  I remember sitting on the rocks outside our hotel in Koh Tao feeling almost intimidated at the amount of traveling that lay before us.  Indeed, for me, those first three weeks in Thailand seemed to pass very slowly.  We were just getting warmed up, and in many ways, Thailand was an ideal warm up.  Thai culture is a shockingly different culture than our own and is rich with sights, sounds and smells.  Yet, Thailand is remarkably easy to travel through. 

            In hindsight, I am increasingly thankful for Thailand, as it provided a more gentle transition than had we flown directly to Nepal from the United States.  Nepal ended up being the crux of our journey. 

            I have a tremendous respect for Nepal, and for the Nepalese.  They are such hard working people.  There are the men and women that walk miles with building supplies or cages full of chickens with only the power of their bodies for transportation and a crude head strap to secure the load.  There are the women whose chores of maintaining house and home never seem to end.  There are the waiters and tea house workers who literally work the same long hours day in and day out.  You do not see Nepalese laying around and relaxing.  The harshness of the conditions for most of the population in Nepal will not allow it. 

                        One thing that particularly impressed us was the resourcefulness of the high mountain village people.  These communities seem to subsist entirely on their own ingenuity and in cooperation with the other nearby villages.  Should a worldwide catastrophe ever threaten the existence of those of us in the “civilized world”, I would imagine the people of the high country in Nepal will go right on existing while we scramble to figure out how to survive in a world without internet.     

            We arrived in Nepal with so much excitement and anticipation.  We had no idea the extent of the physical and emotional challenges that awaited us.  We scratched the itch.  We experienced mountain vistas of which we had only before dreamt.  As is often the case, realizing one’s dreams does not come without a cost, and in the end, the trials of our time in Nepal helped to set the stage for the magical experiences of traveling through the Middle East.

            I would say that it was in Turkey that we really hit our traveling stride.  Part of the credit for this lies in the fact that Turks are incredibly welcoming and helpful people, and Turkey has a fabulous tourist infrastructure.  I believe another explanation is that having survived Nepal and arrived safely and healthily in Turkey, we felt like battle hardened travelers.  We basked in the modernity of present day Turkey.  We were awed by the cleanliness of restaurants, bathrooms and streets.  We fell in love with the bus system.  There is so much to see in Turkey and after three weeks, we barely scraped the surface.  We both agree that of all of the countries we have visited, Turkey is by far our favorite and we look forward to returning.

            It was with more than a touch of angst that we departed Turkey for Israel.  As we would learn, there were threats that the third Palestinian Intifada would kick off the day prior to our arrival.  Our fears, as they often are, proved unsubstantiated.  All around us people carried on with their day to day lives and for the ten days that we were in Israel and Jordan, we felt as safe or more-so than at any other time during our trip.  This is not to deny that there are real problems that face this region and its people.  People do not live in denial.  One young Israeli that we met seemed to put the paradox into perspective as he said, “I’m glad you’ve enjoyed your visit to our beautiful, f’d up corner of the world.”  The darkness and chaos are surely present.  Yet, they are not dominant as it would be easy to assume if one were to rely soley on network news as a means of learning about the world.

            I will forever be thankful that we trusted our hearts, put our fears in perspective, and travelled to the Middle East.  The beautiful people, vibrant cultures and rich history, in concert together, provided an absolutely magnificent travel experience.  I hope that I will never forget the feeling of our time in Jerusalem.  Historically, spiritually, and culturally, I do not know of a more dynamic and exciting place to be.  It was the perfect location for the culmination of our international adventure.

            Of the sixteen or so flights that we had pre-booked, I believe we ended up on two or three of them.  Indeed, this trip has been constantly evolving as it has progressed.  Keeping with that spirit, we called another audible and from Israel we headed home to Ohio to surprise Johanna’s parents.  This was one of our better decisions, as we found the time to relax with family to be a true blessing.  However sleep and family time were not the only gifts of our time in AK-Rowdy (Akron).  Serendipitously, our family has added another member….a beautiful eleven month old Golden Retriever / Irish Setter mix named Henry.  He has been in the Paulett family since soon after birth, however due to extenuating circumstances he has yet to find a permanent home.  I say this was serendipity as we had for some time been researching where and how we would add a puppy to our lives.  However, we did not expect to find our new buddy on this trip. 

It seems that so often in life, when things are meant to be, there is a sense of being pulled rather than having to push through.  So much or our entire trip has had this feel.  We were already very happy with our decision to return just a bit early to Ohio.  With the entry of Henry into our lives, we feel once again awed by the abundant nature of the Universe.  Graciously, Johanna’s folks agreed to look after Henry for the next few weeks while we dog-proof our home and arrange transportation to get him to Oregon. 

However, before getting our home in Portland Henry-ready, we had one more stop on our itinerary.  We headed south to Islamorada, Florida for the wedding of our dear friends Alexis and Aaron.  Relaxing, inspiring and absolutely magical, our time in the Florida Keys provided the icing on the cake to our amazing journey. 

So, how do I begin to bring my recounting of our travels to a close?  These past three months have been a dream-come-true.  In the interest of brevity I will say this:  The opportunity to travel around this big beautiful planet is truly a gift; yet to be able to go around the world with a soul mate is an absolute blessing for which we will be forever grateful.  Cheers to making all of  your dreams come true! 



Travel Stats

World Regions:

Continent: 3

Countries: 6

USA States: 3

Bodies of Water:

Pacific Ocean

Gulf of Thailand

Mediterranean Sea

Black Sea

Dead Sea

Red Sea

Sea of Galilee

Atlantic Ocean

Must See Sights:

Museums/ Ancient Ruins: 10

Temples, Churches, Mosques, Synagogues: 16

Hiking off the beaten path:

Trail Hiking: 175 miles

Hiking days: 25

Transportation:

Flights: 16

Local Bus: 26

Boat Rides: 4

Truck: 7

Elephant: 1

Taxi: 20

Jeep: 2

Train: 3

Tuk Tuk: 3

Tourist Bus: 2

Car Rental: 2

Accommodations:

Hotel, Guesthouse, Hostel, Family Home, Treehouse: 34

Random:

Books Read: 15

Booking Agency/ Guided Tour: 3

2 Nights slept in the airport (ie: chilled at the Crown Plaza)

3 Overnight buses

2 Delayed flights (Qatar & Chicago)

Laundry Services: 9 (plus 2x hand washed ourselves)

3 flat bus tires

Currency Exchange:

Thailand Baht:  1USD = 30.8 THB

Nepal Rupees:  1USD =72 NPR

Turkish Lira: 1USD = 1.5 TRY

Israel New Shekels: 1USD = 3.5 ILS

Jordan Dinars: 1USD = 0.7 JOD

Egypt Pound: 1 USD = 5.8 EGP

Vaccinations/Medications:

Hepatitis A & B series

Tetanus

Typhoid

Polio

Rabies series (3 very expensive shots)

H1N1 & Flu shot

Malaria Pills (Malarone)

Cirpofloxicin (taken multiple times for SE Asia)

Azthromycin (did not need- for India)

Flagyl

Antispasmodic

Zofran

Prilosec

Ibuprofen

Claritin



The Florida Keys

          

            We could not have imagined a more fitting finale to our trip than the past five days in Islamorada, Florida. We were there to attend the wedding of two of our dearest friends, Alexis and Aaron.  It was an opportunity to relax, to reunite with old friends, to make new friends and most importantly to celebrate. 

            The wedding was held at a beautiful, large estate on the Atlantic side of the Island.  Descending from the back deck took one to the pool and beyond to the soft, sandy beach and the blue water of the Atlantic Ocean.  We had to pinch ourselves a couple of times to be reminded, that, “yes we truly are this lucky to be here.”

            Aaron and Alexis are both so absolutely sincere and kind, that it was no surprise to find that their networks of family and friends, many of whom we had not previously met, were delightful and quite a lot of fun to be around.  The wedding that resulted from this confluence of love and goodness can only be described as magical. 

            The wind had been blowing steady for the few days leading up to Saturday’s festivities.  This was quite refreshing really, given the heat of the South Florida sun.  Yet, there was some concern as to whether decorations would blow away and whether the music and speaking through the PA system would be heard. 
            As 7:00 pm approached, the final preparations were underway and the guests were filing in.  Johanna was busy taking pictures and I was spending a few reflective moments alone on the dock that would serve as the ceremony site.  I believe I was as nervous, or perhaps more-so than the wedded couple to be.  Before we left on our three month journey, Alexis and Aaron had asked me to officiate their nuptials.  I was honored beyond words.  I have enjoyed spending time during our trip composing my remarks for the ceremony, and Johanna had been helping me practice.  I was feeling good, but still, this being one of the most important days in the lives of two of my favorite people on this planet, I was feeling a great deal of internal pressure as the start time drew nearer. 

            At different times throughout this blog, I have referred to my belief that there really are no coincidences in this life.  I believe that we create our reality, and that if one chooses, life can be viewed as a string of miracles.  Thus, I was not at all surprised, when, at 7:00 as Aaron and his brother Luke began playing the intro music, the wind stopped.  Aaron’s performance was beautiful and culminated with Alexis rappelling from the house’s upper balcony to be escorted down the aisle by her father.

           The next twenty or so minutes passed in an instant, yet, I can vividly remember every beautiful moment.  As I watched our friends recess back down the aisle as husband and wife, I felt so much love.  For Alexis and Aaron, their families and friends, my wife and for the abundant Universe that provided me the opportunity to take part in such an incredible experience.

           The rest of the night was filled with joy and laughter that flowed effortlessly.  So effortlessly indeed that it was no surprise when many of the attendees retired afterward to a nearby tiki bar for dancing and more dancing (and even some ladies dancing on stage with the band…one of whom was definitely my hot wife…I have pictures to prove it;)  As a wise singer from the 80’s once said, “Oh what a night…”
            When the dust settled, three things were certain:  Aaron and Alexis, the awesome team that they are, were officially joined in marriage; Beebs and Jo, also an awesome team, had successfully completed a three month trip around the world; and absolutely anything is possible.  As Walter quotes so eloquently in The Big Lebowski, “If you will it Dude, it is no dream.”



Cairo, Ohio

            The flight from Tel Aviv to Cairo is approximately one hour long. Thus, when we were still in the air twelve hours after take-off, we became a bit concerned.  When the pilot announced that we were on our final approach to Chicago O’Hare, we knew something was rotten in Denmark…or, at least in Illinois….right…as if you could make that kind of mistake flying El Al out of Israel. 

            We are in Ohio, but it was no accident.  Our initial flight into Egypt from Israel was cancelled, and it proved to be no easy task to rebook our arrangements with the already limited time we had allowed for our visit to Egypt.  It increasingly began to feel like we were swimming against the current.  Besides that, we felt so incredibly satiated with our travels and the last two days in Jerusalem felt like the perfect note to end on.  Plus we both just felt like being around family.  Thus, it was with light hearts and excited anticipation that we booked our tickets to fly home to Ohio. 

            It has been fantastic having the opportunity to relax and spend time with family and also to catch up on our sleep.  We arrived here just after the two weeks of downpours ended, so the sun has been out and everything is bright green and beautiful.  It’s nice to see that northeast Ohio is just as beautiful with the new growth of spring as it is with the changing fall colors that decorated our last visit here.

            Today we checked out the Richfield and Bath Memorial Day Parades, and it was really nice to soak up the small town goodness.  During the last several weeks as we were traveling through Turkey, Israel and Jordan, we were impressed with the prevalence of flags and the apparent national pride of each of those countries.  It was nice to see that same pride on display upon returning back to the States. 

            We learned so much on our travels.  We came to appreciate so many qualities of the countries that we visited and the people that live in each place.  We plan to always travel and spend as much time as possible learning about other parts of the world. That said, one of the revelations that became quite profound for us during our three months of international travel is that we truly are very thankful to live in America.  It is really nice to be home.

           

The City of David

             An amazing archeological site lies just outside of the walls of the Old City of Jerusalem.  Three thousand years ago, King David swept into the city and took control from the Canaanites.  He proceeded to fortify and embellish the infrastructure that was already in place.  Centuries later, after control of the city had changed hands multiple times, these original settlements gradually fell to ruin and were buried beneath subsequent generations.  The remnants of this original city provide an archeological treasure trove that is now the Israeli National Park, “The City of David”.

            An amazing feature of this site is Hezekiah’s Tunnel.  It is a 530 meter long tunnel that was completed around in the 8^th Century BC in order to bring water into the ancient walled city from a natural spring.  It is an archaeological marvel as the corridor, just wide enough for a human to pass through, winds its way from the spring to the Siloam Pool with a grade of 0.06%...just enough to keep the water flowing.



            For students of the Bible, Hezekiah’s Tunnel as well as the Pool of Siloam are both mentioned  (I am not able to site for you the exact passage but will offer extra credit to the first person to report back with the correct answer).  Of note however, The Pool of Siloam is the location in which the Bible tells that Jesus sent a blind man to be healed.

            But I digress.  My whole point in writing about this is to simply say that we had an incredible journey through the length of the tunnel from its origin to its destination at the pool.  The tunnel is accessed by descending many steep stairs down a deep, rock hewn shaft.  From there, with head lamp on and pants rolled up as high as possible, we began the trek through the knee to waist deep water.  When else in our lives are we going to get to hike through a structure that is nearly three thousand years old and flows with clear fresh water?  As we emerged from the tunnel, we were able to see and touch the original inscription that dedicated the tunnel and the pool….not bad, not bad.





            We visited the City of David after our Holy City tour.  Thus, after emerging from the Pool of Siloam we were hungry and ready for some hummus and falafel.  We found a great cave-like restaurant somewhere in the gray area between the Jewish and Muslim Quarters and sat down to a feast of hummus, falafel, salad, pita and chips….yyyeesssss!!!  What a perfect ending to an amazing day! 

Jerusalem

            Most tourist cities include requisite stops at specific holy places.  This of course is true for the City of Jerusalem.  However, to say that there are a great many important religious places in Jerusalem would be like saying that Mother Theresa was a nice elderly lady.  Jerusalem does not just have many holy sites, Jerusalem IS a holy site.  The Holy City as it is often referred to, is aptly named. 

            Our tour of the world’s monotheistic religions came to a grand crescendo yesterday afternoon, just after 2:00pm on the Temple Mount.  As we stood between the Dome of the Rock and The Mount of Olives with the Western Wall below us, our tour guide, with the grace of a symphony conductor, summarized the common threads that weave through Judaism, Christianity and Islam.  He conveyed the power that Jerusalem holds for so many in the world.  It is indeed a power that has the potential to heal or destroy, and we were standing at the fulcrum of that mighty scale. 

            As I am not endeavoring to write a history of world religion, I will try in earnest to keep descriptions of the places we visited to minimum.  I will rather attempt to stick with our experiences of these places.  I will say that I feel that our time in Jerusalem was more than just a highlight of our trip.  For me, the opportunity to absorb Jerusalem was one of the great privileges of my life.  I hope that my words can come close to doing the experience justice.

            Two days ago, we arrived in West Jerusalem, also called the New City, and checked into The Abraham Hostel.  After about a fifteen minute walk down Jaffa Road we were circumnavigating the walls of the Old City.  We decided to spend our first afternoon just wandering around to get a flavor of the place.  There is no better way to do that than to enter into the Muslim Quarter via the Damascus Gate.  We made our way through the narrow streets crammed with stalls and merchants.  We were immediately taken with the smoothness of the rock paved roads under our feet and pondered how many others have traversed these same steps over the centuries. 

            Because of the narrow streets which are more like alleys, I felt like I didn’t know where I was going until I got there.  Squeezing through crowds of tourists and vendors, sidestepping a seemingly out of place tractor, and then, “what’s that on the left?”  “Oh its just the Eighth Station of the Cross.”  “I wonder what’s through that door...The Church of the Holy Sepulchre....wow!” We visited the Western Wall and added our prayers to the cracks of the only surviving remnant of the Second Temple.  Despite the crowds of pilgrims performing various rites of devotion, the place has a stillness that is profound.  We took time to absorb as much as we could.  As the sun set, we began to walk back to our hostel for some rest.  For the following day, we had booked a four hour walking tour of Jerusalem’s most prominent holy sites.  The rest would prove much needed.

            It was very important to us to find a tour that did not boast of a particular religious affiliation.  We were optimistic about our choice, appropriately titled, “The Holy City Tour”, as its brochure requested that guests check any prejudices at the door and come with an open mind to experience some of the holiest places of the three monotheistic religions.  At eleven in the morning, we met our guide Phil at the entrance to the Jaffa Gate, and soon we were off. 

            Phil is an interesting guy and a fantastic guide.  We came to learn that he’s from Chicago, but has been in Israel for two years living with his wife and children.  He first led us to Mount Zion and the site that is believed to have been host to the Last Supper, which sits above the presumed location of King David’s tomb…talk about a one-two punch! 

            The Coenaculum, as it is known, is a large room built during the time of the Crusaders.  The specifics of the site’s original architecture are only theoretical.  However, from biblical and historical accounts, it is likely to have been the location of The Last Supper.  At least, as Phil put it, those records were convincing enough to motivate the Crusaders to construct the Coenaculum and for countless numbers of the faithful to pay respect to the site over the centuries.  Under Ottoman rule, the room served as a mosque.  On one side of the room there is a statue of an olive tree with one large trunk and three primary branches.  The tree was a gift from the last Pope and is meant as a tribute to the common origin (the trunk) of Judaism, Christianity and Islam (the three branches). 

           Next, we headed downstairs to the alleged Tomb of King David.  I say alleged because that is how it was presented.  There is certainly a large sarcophagus present, however, it is not absolutely certain as to whose remains lie in the tomb.  According to Phil, the identity of the tomb has been extrapolated from some of Jesus’ words at the Last Supper.  To use Phil’s words, even in the absence of definitive proof, the fact alone that millions of people have visited the site to pray provides sufficient grounds to consecrate a holy site and make the location significant.  I tend to agree.

            From Mount Zion we made our way across the Old City to The Church of The Holy Sepulchre.  The original church was constructed in the 3^rd or 4^th century AD, however as is the case with much of Jerusalem, the majority of the current structure was built by the Crusaders.  The Holy Sepulchre is built upon Calvary Hill and is believed to contain the sites of Jesus’ crucifixion, burial and resurrection.  As you may imagine, it holds a great deal of importance for many, and it is not a place to find solitude.  We filed into the church amidst the masses.  Upon entering the front door, we were greeted by a large, beautiful mosaic that serves both to depict the events around Jesus’ crucifixion as well as to provide a “map” of the church.  At our feet was the stone slab where it is believed Jesus’ body was placed to be washed and prepared for burial.    To the right of the slab, a steep staircase led to a shrine marking the top of Golgotha, where the cross would have been placed in the ground.  We continued in a counter-clockwise circle around the church until we came to another shrine marking the entrance to the cave where Jesus’ body was entombed and from which he was resurrected.  Quite dramatically, the high noon sun projected a streaming beam of white light through a hole in the dome above and directly onto the shrine.  Continuing our circuit, we arrived back near the entrance at a modestly adorned cupola. The cupola is dedicated to The Virgin Mary, and is believed to be the location from where she observed the death of her son.  My flesh tingled with goose-bumps as my mind was filled with the visual image of a mother witnessing the profound suffering of her only son.  As Phil stated, it is for that experience and others like it that people visit the Holy Sepulchre.  Sure, the Crusader architecture is nice, but this is not a site to visit for columns and arches.  As we exited back to the street, I truly felt as if we were leaving hallowed ground.

           

            We headed back across the city toward the Temple Mount.  The streets were even more packed with people than before as we crossed from the Christian Quarter into the Jewish Quarter (there is also an Armenian Quarter for anyone keeping score).  The dividing lines between the areas are not defined and rather seem to melt effortlessly one into the next.  I don’t want to get overly political, but this bears mention.  We hear nearly every day about violence in the Middle East and how Jews, Christians and Muslims can’t seem to get along.  Yet, in a confined walled city that contains such revered ground, and which is inhabited by devout believers in each of the three faiths, there seems to be a remarkable degree of tolerance and coexistence.  If they can make it work in this place that has been host to tremendous conflict over the years, why then could that not provide a model for people around the world.

            Indeed, Phil touched on this notion poignantly as we waited in the security line to go up to the Temple Mount.  Non-Muslims are only allowed on top of the Temple Mount, where the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque are located, during specific time periods each day.  Thus, at 1:30 as the gates are opened for the afternoon session, tourists que up at the checkpoint which is located directly next to the line for entrance into the Western Wall prayer area.  As we waited to enter, Phil pointed out that at this check point, you have Jewish soldiers rigorously screening all entrants in order to protect the Islamic Holy Sites on top of the Temple Mount.  Thousands of people pass through these gates every week as the interests of Islam are dutifully protected by security forces from Israel.  But have you ever heard that on the evening news?



            The process was smooth and orderly and soon we were ascending the wooden ramp to the entrance to the third most sacred site in Islam, which happens to sit above the most revered of Hebrew holy places – the biblical Mount Moriah.  Wars have been fought and much blood has been spilt over the land rights to this mound of sacred earth.  This tumultuous history was completely betrayed by the supreme feeling of tranquility that was immediately evident as we walked toward The Dome of the Rock.  The gold plated dome covers the rock upon which it is believed that Abraham offered his son Isaac as a sacrifice to God.  It is also the location where Muslims believe The Prophet Mohammed ascended to heaven.  Groups of Muslims were gathered in prayer, while others performed the ritual washing before entering Al-Aqsa Mosque.  We walked slowly and in awe of the spirit of this amazing place. 



            Phil gathered us off to the side and pointed to the Mount of Olives and the gold plated domes of The Church of the Ascension, where it is believed by Christians that Jesus ascended to heaven.  We turned around to again view the gold plated dome that marks the site where the Prophet of Islam ascended to heaven.  At our feet, the location of the Hebrew First and Second Temples, and the location of the foundation stone of the world according to Jewish tradition.  The common ground does not start or end there and we were reminded of the statue of the Olive Tree from the Coenaculum: one common trunk that supplies three unique but inter-dependent branches with the water of life.  Those that believe in Judgment Day and the Armageddon claim that Jerusalem will be site of this closing act of humanity.  But maybe, just maybe, the passion that threatens to destroy could actually be harnessed for salvation?  Jerusalem has been host to so many miracles over the millennia.  I am ready to believe in the potential for at least one more. 

Two Ancient Cities of the Middle East

      The days are flying by since we initially arrived in Israel almost a week ago.  Everything feels alive here.  Even the desert buzzes with an aliveness that is difficult to describe.  I don’t know if it is possible to distinguish between a location’s innate energy and the vibe that people bring to it.  Is there something truly mystical about this unique region of our planet?  Or does this mysticism derive from the collective unconsciousness of its inhabitants and visitors?  I believe it’s all connected, and I suppose you could get all “chicken-eggy” about this question.  But, let’s not.  Let me just say that it feels amazing to be here.

      On our first evening in Israel, we watched the sunset as we floated in the Dead Sea.  The next morning, we visited the Masada, a natural mountain-top fortress of rock that overlooks the Dead Sea.  This sight holds a special prominence in the national psyche of Israelis.  The fortress was originally constructed on the mountain by the Roman Herod the Great.  In 66 AD a group of Jewish Zealots defeated a Roman Garrison and established a compound there during the first Jewish-Roman War.  Around 70 AD, additional Jewish refugees fled to the Masada following the destruction of the 2^nd Temple.  With their numbers at 967 including women and children, the Zealots resisted a Roman siege for months.  During this time, the Romans utilized slave labor in order to construct of giant ramp of dirt and wood that would ultimately enable them to enter the fortress.  On the last night before the Romans would breach the western wall of the Masada, the inhabitants drew lots to determine which of them would systematically take the lives of the others.  As Judaism strongly discourages suicide, the system was such that only the last survivor had to take his own life. The Zealots chose to accept death at their own hands rather than to accept defeat and enslavement or death at the hands of the Romans.  When the Romans entered the Masada the next day, instead of resistance they found all of the inhabitants dead with the exception of 7 stow-aways.  To this day, the saying that “Masada shall not fall again” is a sacred oath amongst Israelis.

     As we ascended past the original siege ramp, and then looked out from the breach point of the western wall, it was impossible to not be moved.  We took time to contemplate how that could have felt to watch for months as the enemy methodically drew nearer, and then to have the courage of conviction that the Jewish Zealots had to not accept defeat and disgrace.  It is not too difficult to draw parallels between that resolve and the same determination that drives modern-day Israel to survive in a region that is for the most part hostile to its existence.

            From Masada we headed south to the Yitzhak Rabin Border Crossing to Jordan.  We found the border to be mostly deserted, save for a cashier, a customs agent and a couple of guys in street clothes brandishing machine guns.  Before we knew it, we were crossing the no-man’s land into Jordan.

            Roughly two hours after entering the country, we were dropped off in front of the Cleopetra Hotel in Wadi Mousa, the city that sits at Petra’s gate.  If you’ve seen Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, then you’ve seen the most iconic images of Petra, the Siq and the Treasury.  In the movie, these sights mark the entrance to the fictional ancient city of “Alexandretta”, where the Holy Grail is kept.  While in Petra, we did not uncover the Holy Grail, however it can be said that the entire city is a huge treasure in and of itself.

            Originally established in the last couple centuries BC, Petra was the home of the Nabataeans, descendants of ancient Arab tribes from the Arabian Peninsula.  Petra was a major hub for the region’s trade routes and hosted endless streams of caravans carrying goods such as spices, silks, ivory and animal hides.  Due to this prominence in the trading world, Petra was exposed to many different cultures.  As well, during its heyday, the passing caravans were a great source of income.  This wealth combined with the Nabataeans’ openness to outside cultural influence provided the stage upon which the architectural magnificence of Petra was built.  After many centuries of affluence, Petra was gradually abandoned after the 14^th century until it was rediscovered by a Swiss traveler in 1812.

            We spent two full days hiking around this massive place and still did not see everything.  I could go on and on about the magnificence of Petra, however, I believe it is best to let the pictures speak for themselves.  Thus, I will leave you with one short anecdote.  In a previous entry from Olympos, I spoke of Larry and Maureen, a wonderful older couple from Ireland with whom we had the privilege of sharing some time.  In that entry, I marveled at their vigor and adventurous spirits, especially given the fact that they are well into their 70s in age.  This anecdote contains yet another shout-out to our friends.

            The main entrance to Petra is through the 2 kilometer long narrow gorge called the Siq.  To the right of this entrance, there is a tunnel that leads to another gorge and an alternate, more challenging hike in.  Larry and Maureen highly recommended we make an effort to explore this hike.  So, excited for a challenge, we set off to check it out during our second day.  We hadn’t reached the tunnel before a security guard yelled at us to stop and come back.  We were told it was too dangerous and that we could not pass that way.  Our plans foiled, we were left to draw one of two conclusions:  Either a guard was present when Larry and Maureen entered and determined that they could handle the same hike that we had just been told was too dangerous, or, Larry and Maureen snuck in and successfully completed a hike that the well-intentioned guard felt was too dangerous for two fit 20-30 somethings.  Either way, two things are certain:  Larry and Maureen are supreme bad-asses, and neither Jo nor I enjoy being told that we can’t do something we really want to do.     



Sources:

Masada - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masada

Petra - Free brochure "Petra" which is given at the gate.

http://www.tourism.jo/