In the Shadows of Giants

     Nepal is an adventure: Physiologically, Physically, Spiritually.  As I write this I am on the rooftop terrace of our hotel in Pokhara.  On a clear day I would be able to see the entire Annapurna range from where I sit.  It is raining today, so I am sufficed with views of rich green hills and the serene Phewa Lake.  Johanna is downstairs in our room resting next to our nightstand / pharmacy.  Between us, we are on 3 courses of antibiotics, an antispasmodic, a little Zofran and plenty of ibuprofen.  I said it was an adventure!

Physiological Adventure

     I would like to add a subtitle to Lonely Planet's Guide to Trekking in Nepal.  I would call it: "Trekking in Nepal: An Assault on Your Bowels".  Acknowledging that not everyone who may read this will be in the medical profession, I will refrain from frank details.  Lets just say that over the last two weeks, Jo and I have traversed the entire spectrum of gastrointestinal distress, spending most of our time at one extreme or the other and almost no time in any state of "equilibrium".

     While we rested in the village of Manang at an elevation of roughly 11,500 feet, we became increasingly concerned that Johanna was suffering from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), signs of which can be vague and symptoms (headache, nausea, fatigue, increased heartrate and shortness of breath) can be easily associated with everything from the common flu to a hangover (referred to as "the Irish Flu" by one of the physicians we met from the Himalayan Rescue Association in Manang).  We knew it was not a hangover as neither of us had consumed a drop of alcohol since Kathmandu, so that left either AMS or some other mysterious virus or infection.  After 3 days of rest, Jo was not getting better and her condition actually began to deteriorate.  Thus, we made the call to head for lower elevation.  As her condition continued to worsen as we descended, we knew that we needed to seek medical care as soon as possible.

     In the past couple of days, we have been to the beautifully efficient clinic / community hospital in Besi Sahar as well as the larger Charak Hospital and Research Center in Pokhara.  All of the doctors that  saw Jo were amazing - as astute as they were efficient....amazingly without the aid of computerized charting (no offense to you EPIC Super Users out there:-) Did I mention affordable as well?  All told, a full diagnostic work up plus about 4 hours in the hospital cost us just over 50 USD!  

     Now that Jo is on what seems to be the correct mix of medications, she looks and claims to feel like a new woman.  Feeling quite relieved myself to finally see her improving, my mood and stress levels are easing with each passing moment.

Physical Adventure

     Over the past 2 weeks, we pushed our bodies to find reserves that neither of us knew we possessed.  We hiked in approximately 55 miles over 6 days from Besi Sahar to Manang.  Along the way, we gained about 9000 feet of elevation.  After making the decision to descend rather than continue over the pass, we hustled out covering nearly 40 miles of challenging terrain over 3 arduously long days.  We were anticipating having to walk another 4 to 5 miles, however miraculously upon cresting the hill into the village of Chamche we found a jeep, whose driver reluctantly agreed to drive us to the "official" jeep stand further down the trail (Please check back for future entry entitled: "The most terrifying hour of our lives").

      Our initial objective had been to hike the Annapurna Circuit in its entirety.  If accomplishing this goal is held as the measure of a successful trip, then it could be said that things did not go as planned.  Indeed, there were plenty of times where, in the moment I thought just that, "this isn't working out as we planned."  Despite that pestering voice, there was a deeper, more peaceful voice that attempted to redirect me to the notion that everything was transpiring perfectly.  As I reflect back, it becomes even easier to see the wisdom of that still, small but steadfast voice.

Spiritual Adventure

     From the outset of our journey, the lessons abounded and the "coincidences" were almost too many to count.  The majesty of nature unfolded before us as we ascended steep, vast gorges, past lush tropical flora and active farming communities.  We continued up through subalpine terrain thick with pine trees and  a scent that reminded us distinctly of our beloved Pacific Northwest.  Finally, we spent 3 days in the village of Manang, literally at the footsteps of 2 menacingly beautiful 25,000 foot peaks.  It is quite something to feel hugely insignificant and simultaneously woven into the complex interconnected fabric of life.  This feeling is what was there for me in the moments that I managed to get my goal-oriented ego to step aside and ride shotgun.

     For me, our attempt of the Annapurna Circuit was a journey of acceptance.  In hindsight I am able to realize how much pressure I put on myself, and thus also put on Jo, to have the experience I felt we "should" have.  I would have been wise to heed the sage-like advice proffered by Mick Jagger and Keith Richards in the song "No Expectations".  

     At the outset, I had one idea of what a "successful trip" would look like.  Through the lens of acceptance I see that the manner in which our journey has unfolded is absolutely perfect.  We are so grateful to have had the opportunity to meet the people we have met and to see the sights we have seen.  We are so grateful to be in Pokhara where we can relax and allow our bodies to recover.  We are so grateful to be together on this adventure.  We are SO grateful to not have to walk ANYWHERE....at least not anytime soon :-)

     Please check back soon for the previously mentioned anecdotes and pictures....